Author - Magdalena Tyra -
Some time ago I visited Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in Northern Spain. My inspiration came from the Scottish connection. I absolutely love everything about Celtic heritage and the idea of seeing Spanish Celts in Kilts playing Scottish music on pipes intrigued me. On that visit, I saw many pilgrims in Santiago, which is the destination of many Camino walks, but I would have never have imagined I would be one of them 5 years later, walking 780km across Northern Spain. The seed was planted in my mind on that visit and just grew stronger.
The next milestone was watching the movie “The Way“ with Martin Sheen, a film about an American doctor who comes to St. Jean Pied de Port, France to collect the remains of his son, killed in the Pyrenees in a storm while walking the Camino de Santiago, also known as The Way of Saint James.
It was such a strong impulse. I read a few Camino forums, and jogged for a month to improve my stamina in the local park. Soon, I was ready for the new adventure. I packed my rucksack very lightly with the bare minimum
(absolutely crucial as you need to carry it all the way). Even carrying a camera sounded too heavy, and I could use the camera on my phone instead. I decided to divide my Camino into 4 parts and do it in stages, year by year. I simply didn’t have 30 days of holiday to do it in one go. I have to admit I was scared of failure as I had never walked such long distances
(average 20 km per day) with a rucksack. However, I knew there was something bigger than myself and I was just a part of the big master plan, it was my destiny and I would be fine.
The Way of St James was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the middle ages.
The legend holds that St James’ remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in the city of Santiago de Compostela. In the 1980s the Camino underwent a revival of its popularity, attracting increasing the numbers of modern pilgrims. In 1987, the route was declared the first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe; it was also named one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites.
I wasn’t sure what I was looking for but I just knew I would find my answers there. It all sounded very exciting; a less is more philosophy, travelling light, taking the bare minimum, basic accommodation, no distractions, walking in beautiful nature - so different from living in busy London trapped in commuting, constant crowds, overwhelming news, shopping, eating, being spoiled for choice. I needed to go away on my spiritual retreat and remove myself from the bustle of modern life.
No expectations, no controlling of the outcome in my head, just an open mind and heart. I decided to treat each person who I was going to meet as a gift from God; embracing, trusting and inviting each day as it comes, going closer to the destination.
And so I found myself in Rascavalles in the Basque Country
(second stop after St Jean Pied de Port). The idea of walking through the Pyrenees on the first day didn’t sound right for my level of fitness. Feeling fresh, walking in crisp air through picturesque fields, hills and forests. The Camino Way is well - signed, you can find the symbol of the Camino - a scallop shell – everywhere to keep you on the track, as well as yellow arrows which help with navigation.
The Basque Country keeps its unique cultural tradition and identity in distinct language and music: Navarra, then La Rioja where the scenery of vineyards reminds you constantly that you are in the Rioja region famous for its excellent wine. At the summit of the hills, along with Pilgrim monuments, unfolds the scenery of endless sunflower fields and wind turbines. Then follows the flatness of the Palencia region which you just want to walk through as soon as possible, as, scenery-wise, this is the least interesting part of the Camino. The breakthrough happens again in Leon as you entering the Cacabelos in El Bierco province surrounded by mountains by all sides which makes this area isolated from neighbouring lands. Then you pass the town of Ponferrada, donated to the Templar for protecting the pilgrims on the Way of St James with a Templar Castle built in the 12th century. Finally, Galicia - the most scenic and picturesque part of Camino full of historical towns and the Atlantic coast. I have mentioned just a few places in this historical land of Northern Spain, which is bursting with heritage.
The Camino for me was also a culinary adventure. I ate the best Pinchos,
(commonly known as the tapas of Northern Spain) in Pamplona, the best Rioja I drank in Navarra. Galicia is famous for its seafood and Pulpo – octopus in Melide, (Case del Elzemieke).
What I never forget was the special connections and friendships which I made on this trip. Endless discussions about life, happiness, love, dreams, faith, religion. You are never alone on the Camino unless you want to be. Sometimes I needed silence and solitude, but most of the time I was in the company of others. It happened so naturally. You meet people in hostels, in the evening sharing dinner and a glass of wine and of course walking on the Way.
Life was simple on the Camino. Waking up very early in the morning, walking for about 6 hours, resting, eating and being so grateful for comfort of bed in the evening. Sometimes sleeping with 20 people in the room. Snoring stopped bothering me after the 2nd day, it is a part of the experience
(however ear stoppers can help). The hardest part for me was to say goodbye to my friends and let them go at the end of each part of my Camino. Many of them walked further to Santiago but I chose my Way. I had stopped and started again from the point I finished the last time.
My epic journey took me 4 years to complete. Entering Santiago de Compostela was very emotional for me. All my friends who I carried in my heart from previous years walked with me in this moment. I tried to imagine how it was for them walking to Santiago town.
Did they find what they were looking for, did they have their answers, and did they think about me?
I made some close friends with I am still in touch, and some acquaintances who I only encountered once, like a couple from New Zealand who I met at dinner in Zubiri. They were walking the Camino in reverse from Santiago as they had already done the Camino on bicycles.
The Camino walk is like life; sometimes with sunshine, sometimes with rainy days. It is not about the destination, it’s about the journey.
“We shall not cease from exploration
and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started
and know the place for the first time”
Quote from Four Quartets by T.S. Eliot
